Saturday, July 27, 2019

Gorgeous Georgia - Part II

Contd. from Part I

19th July 2019 – We started the day with sumptuous breakfast at Holiday Inn and our journey towards Kakheti, which was famous for grape vineyard and production of wine. Georgia’s major export is wine and there are more than 140 varieties of wine produced there.
Kakheti Traditional Wine Making Factory
First, we reached Kakheti Traditional Wine making factory called as KTW. We were guided through the factory and the factory representative explained about different varieties of wine. We were also offered some shots of various types of wine to taste. White wine, red wine, dry, sweet & semi sweet varieties and many more. They also explained about 10 year old Brandy which was imported from France in big barrels.

After the factory trip, we headed towards a grape vineyard and our guide explained the process of cultivation and harvest of grapes. He also explained that they also make a local sweet called chuchkela with grape juice boiled to a thick consistency and then stuffed with walnuts, hazelnuts etc.

Our next stop was at Bodbe Monastery. It is completely run by nuns living there. Except for the Patriarch, no other men are allowed to stay at this Monastery. It is a totally serene and beautiful place. An apt place of worship where you feel peaceful and divine.
Bodbe Monastery
After filling up our souls with blissful sight of the place we headed towards the small town of Sighnaghi. Paragliding activity was happening here as well. And this time I had decided to paraglide. But once I reached the spot, my stomach started churning and I was questioning the team and the pilot whether it was safe or was it scary etc. However, they comforted me that they have all safety measures taken and I just had to bear the fear for a few seconds to get a brilliant view from the top.

As they say, “Fear is only temporary. Regrets last forever”; now am happy that I wouldn’t have to regret missing it.

The team fixed me up to the parachute and the pilot was right behind me.
Paragliding
I was asked to run a few steps to take off for the glide; I would say, that was the toughest run I have ever done. A few steps and I felt I was gonna fall, but luckily the parachute took off. And WOW, what a feel it was! Flying like a bird, having the best view from the sky, all fear had vanished, and it was just an awesome moment!! Around 500 metres above the sea level and it was out of the world experience. Though only a 5 minute ride am sure I would never forget this in my life!

We landed on the plains and the team had arranged for a vehicle to pick us up from the plain to the starting point which was at the top of the mountain. Then we started on our return journey chirping throughout about the paragliding experience.

Royal Bath - Sulphur Bath
When we reached back to Tbilisi, we wanted to have a Sulphur bath and hence reached the old town. There are several hot springs in Tbilisi with high content of Sulphur. The erstwhile kings and queens experienced Sulphur baths and preferred to have their abode nearby and that was how Tbilisi was built. We visited ‘Royal Bath’ and booked for a private bath for an hour. We were provided with room which had a small waiting room, a restroom and a big bathroom with pool filled with Sulphur hot spring, a marble platform and showers. Those who require, a masseur shall also scrub and massage for a fee.

The Sulphur bath was rejuvenating to the skin and at the same time, when we came out, we were feeling so tired with the hot bath, which also resembled a sauna.

We breathed fresh air and visited India Palace restaurant for lunch at 6 pm. The food was very delicious there, very much like food back in India. We had plans to have a night walk after relaxing; but we were so tired that we skipped the walk and decided to rest.

Jvari Monastery
20th July 2019 – The last day of our trip. We had a good breakfast at Holiday Inn and proceeded to check out from the hotel. Our plans for the day was to have tour of Mtskheta and Tbilisi – the old and new capitals of Georgia.

We started our travel towards Mtskheta and we visited the Jvari Monastery first. Before Christianity spread in this country, the people were worshipping Armas, the God of fire. A temple stood at the place of this Monastery. When Saint Nino, a female evangelist visited Georgia, the then King accepted Christianity. The statue of Armas was removed and a Cross was installed at the temple and it became the Monastery. The guide also informed us that initially the monastery was built with wood, but later it was renovated with stones. Jvari Monastery is on a small hill top and from there we were able to view the town of Mtskheta. We were also able to view the confluence of Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers.
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Next we travelled down to the town of Mtskheta. Most of the places of Mtskheta are listed under UNESCO World Heritage site. Our next stop was at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. This church, built in 4th century, is considered as a very Holy place and called as Jerusalem of Georgia. The Church has the robe of Jesus Christ buried in its hall. A piece of wood of the Cross that was used for crucifying Jesus is also protected here and widely worshipped. The church also has secret passages to escape and protect the inmates from invasions. Several kings and queens have been buried in this church.

There is also a legend that the King who ordered for the church to be built was astonished by the beauty of the church and believed that the architect who built it, was empowered by evil and hence ordered for his right hand to be chopped off.
Cross which protects the piece of wood
There is a relief on the northern wall which shows a right hand holding the chisel with an inscription which says that

“The Hand of Arsukidze,
slave of God,
may forgiveness be his.”

(The guide explained about this legend, however I have picked the exact words of the inscription from Wikipedia)

We noticed that in almost all the monasteries and churches, the walls were painted with frescoes and have been damaged extensively during wars. I was reminded of the damages that have happened to our historical artifacts and buildings during invasions at various periods of time in our country.

The entrance of the church also had two bull heads which meant as a warning to the invaders not to enter the church.

After our visit, we roamed around the streets to find many shops and were excited to see ice cream rolls being prepared.
Ice cream rolls with fresh fruit
They used a freezing plate, added fresh fruits, chocolate sauce, and molten ice cream and prepared a wonderful ice cream roll. Please note ice creams in Georgia are super tasty.

Our tour in Mtskheta ended and we headed towards the city of Tbilisi. We took a walk around Tbilisi with our guide explaining about the political situation, the Municipality office, new and old projects for development in Tbilisi etc. He showed us the Patriarch’s house, President Palace (which is now being modified as a Hotel), the art school etc. Tbilisi houses many Medical and Technical universities and students from various countries study there.

Dog Feeders & wooden house
We crossed the Bridge of Peace again, but now in day light and reached the Rike Park to board the cable car. On the way, we saw several feeders and wooden houses for dogs in the park. The guide informed us that all stray dogs are being vaccinated and the feeders and wooden houses are set up by the Government. People who walk around may pour the water into an inlet set for it and also drop the empty bottle in the other inlet. When water is poured it gets dispensed through an outlet for the dogs and similarly, when an empty bottle is dropped, food gets dispensed through another outlet for them. The wooden houses are kept nearby for the dogs to get rest. And believe me; the stray dogs were very healthy and well fed.

Mother of Georgia
We boarded the cable car and reached Narikala fortress. After having a look at Mother of Georgia in the day light, we walked our way to the Fortress. There is also a botanical garden present there, but considering the limited time we had, we decided not to opt for it.

Narikala Fortress was built in 4th century, but what remain now are only the outer walls that too in dilapidated condition. The fortress houses a church which was built in 1996-97, as the 13th century church was stood there was destroyed by fire. We took a walk around the fortress and climbed on the watch towers to get a better a view of the city.

Narikala Fortress - Inside view
Next, we walked down the hill to reach the Meteki Square. It was time to bid adieu to the guide. We parted after greetings and then headed towards India Palace restaurant to have our lunch. After lunch, we walked down the street, did some shopping here and there and reached Liberty Square. We had heard of the Metro rail in Tbilisi and wanted to travel in that. So, we reached the Galleria Mall where the Metro rail station is located. We took a quick walk inside the mall and then went to Metro station. We took a train to Holiday Inn; refreshed ourselves and once our driver arrived to pick us up, we started towards the airport.

Our short trip to Tbilisi winded up with sweet memories and great moments to cherish. The Gorgeous Georgia is still fresh in our minds!



Gorgeous Georgia - Part I

“I would rather own a little and see the world than own the world and see a little of it!”

Travelling to new places is adventurous and of course, addictive. I have always loved travelling. So, a sudden plan to go on a trip to Tbilisi, Georgia, is like getting paid for tasting sugarcane. We readily went ahead to decide for a short trip, only enough to accommodate 4 days in our routine schedules. Travel is one thing where you act the moment you think of it. I set out to check on the places to visit around Tbilisi, the flight schedules, accommodation etc on Google. After obtaining some knowledge on the place, we were checking on options whether to plan our travel on our own or look out for packages from a tour agent. Considering the travel plans at very short notice, hardly 15 days before the planned date, we contacted a few travel agents. Out of the responses, we were happy with the itinerary provided by Al Mulla Travels and booked our trip through them.

Tbilisi International Airport (Pic courtesy: Internet)

Visa to Georgia, for Indian citizens with GCC residency is totally free. One must just carry his residence ID to get entry to Georgia. However, travel insurance is compulsory to visit the place.

We got our booking ready – flight tickets, hotel voucher, travel insurance and we were all set to go.

The day of our tour arrived – 17th July 2019. We boarded the Qatar Airways flight which reached Tbilisi via transit at Doha.

Tbilisi Airport – A very small airport and the immigration process hardly took any time. We picked up our baggage and came out to find Mr. Beqa, our driver waiting for us with our name in a placard. We bought local sim card, as guided by our travel agent and proceeded towards the hotel. Enroute, we felt the city quite very familiar with similarities with suburban Chennai. The very first look of the city revealed that it is quite a poor country unlike many countries in Europe.
Holiday Inn

We reached our hotel Holiday Inn and checked in. A wonderful cozy place to relax; they also had other facilities like gym, swimming pool, lounge bar, casino and a restaurant. We didn’t have any tour plan in the itinerary on that day. So, we decided to chill out for a while in the swimming pool. After some time, the alarm bell rang from the stomach. Yes, we realized we hadn’t had lunch. It was 3.30 pm already. So, we quickly took a shower and went around looking for an Indian restaurant.

We located ‘Indian Express’ restaurant in 1.2 km radius from our hotel.
Indian Express Restaurant
We took a walk on the streets and found that Pekini Avenue was a hub for shopping. Happily watching the stores and shops from outside, we headed to Alexander Kazbegi Avenue where the restaurant was located. The weather was just right for a relaxed walk. Indian Express restaurant had wonderful North Indian dishes which we relished. A restaurant run by a Gujarati and his wife being the Chef. We had a good talk with them while we enjoyed our food. We noticed that all supermarkets & restaurants had wine and alcohol as well. With all the tiredness in travel we headed back to the hotel and relaxed with a nap.


Since we had already heard of night life of Tbilisi, we started our tour in the night. We took a taxi to Bridge of Peace to start with. The Bridge of peace had a bow shape and illuminated with numerous LEDs with a wonderful sight.
Bridge of Peace
It is a pedestrian bridge across the Mtkvari river and connects both the banks of the river. There was Shangri La Casino across the road. We took a walk on the bridge of peace and we found several people persuading for a boat ride. We decided to go on a boat ride. Initially it was only the two of us and the boat driver and he was playing music on his speaker. We connected to the speaker via Bluetooth and played Tamil cine songs. After say, around 10 minutes, we had more foreigners onboard. To our surprise, they enjoyed our songs – mass maranam, guleba, aaluma doluma, rowdy baby etc – and started dancing. We too joined and had a good dance on the boat. The boat driver also joined the dance and wah, what a fun time even with strangers. When the boat ride ended in half an hour, we had happy memories to take along.

After the boat ride, we walked our way to Rike park. There is a cable car operating from Rike Park and takes you to the Narikala Fortress up on the hill, across the Mtkvari river over the rooftops and buildings of Old town in just less than 2 minutes. The cost of travel is also very nominal and here they use something called as ‘Metro card’ for journey in cable cars, metro rails and buses. We travelled in the cable car and it was a splendid view from the top. We reached Narikala Fortress; however since it was already late in the night, we didn’t attempt to enter the fortress.
View from Hill top
We just strolled around upto the statute of Mother of Georgia. Despite being late in the night, there were several tourists like us, who were taking a walk around and enjoying the beautiful sight of the city in the night from the top of the hill. Again, we came down in cable car and walked thru the Meteki bridge and reached Meteki square. This area is the city center of Old Tbilisi. Several shops, pubs and bars were open and full of activity. There are few Indian and Pakistani restaurants too at this place. We selected Taj Mahal Restaurant for our dinner. Quite an okay food. After dinner, we headed back to our hotel in a taxi to rest.

Next day, 18th July 2019, it dawned with our super excitement to visit Kazbegi. We finished our continental breakfast at Holiday Inn. Our guide Mr. Santino arrived along with our driver Mr. Beqa on time to take us on our tour.

After pleasant introductions, we started our tour, first to Zhinvali water Reservoir. It was such a beautiful place.
Zhinvali Water Reservoir
The guide explained how the water level got to be very high this year, as the snow from atop the mountains had melted due to global warming increasing the water level at the reservoir. 


Our next stop was at Aragvi river in the southern slopes of Caucasus Mountains. Two rivers Tetri Aragvi and Shavi Aragvi combine here to form Aragvi river. The tetri aragvi is in normal colour whereas shavi aragvi is black in colour, due to high content of minerals in it. The mixing up of white and black waters was a wonderful view.

Aragvi river - white & black
Then we headed towards Gudauri. On the way we saw a hotel by name Club 2100 and the guide explained that it is located at 2100 meters high from the sea and hence named Club 2100. The mountain route was delightful with scenic beauty around. It is always exciting to see the big cities look small from the top of the mountains. It reminds us, how small we are, considering the size of our earth and of our universe!

At Gudauri, the main attraction would be the ski resorts and winter games, however that happens only when it is snowing – November to March. Since we visited only in July, we had to miss them. We visited the Russian Georgian Friendship Monument at Gudauri. It was built in 1983 to commemorate the friendship between Russia and Georgia. The view from there was breathtaking.
Gudauri - Breathtaking view from top
Paragliding activity was available at this place. However, we did not opt for it there. We spent some good time embracing the fresh air and beautiful sight for eyes and the headed towards Stepantsminda.

Stepantsminda is a small town in the center of Kazbegi municipality. Writer Alexander Kazbegi was born in this town and rose to fame. The guide claimed that Stepantsminda was named as Kazbegi in memory of this writer. But we also heard a story that this writer’s grandfather was nick named Kazi-Beg and was very loyal to Russia and hence the town was named Kazbegi.

The main attraction of Stepantsminda is the Gregeti Trinity Church.
Gregeti Trinity Church
The Church is located at around 2170 metres high from the sea. We took a different vehicle to reach the Church. The Church which was built in 14th century was also serving as a treasure house to safeguard the treasures of Georgia whenever it faced attack from enemies. From the church, we were able to view the Mount Kazbegi and its shining snow capped peaks. We wished to go there as well, however, the guide informed us that it was around 5000 metres high from the sea and the only way to reach the top is by trekking and it took more than 10 days to reach by experienced trekkers. Unable to move our sight away from its beauty, we just heaved a sigh and continued our journey.

It was time for us to take the return route. We travelled towards Ananuri and on the way we stopped at a place where water with more iron content was available and the rocks on which the water was flowing had a totally different colour and texture. The guide said it was due to the high mineral and iron content that the rocks had a different colour; it looked brownish orange and the rocks looked slippery.
The rocks & water with more iron content
However, when we climbed on them, we found that it had good grip and the slippery look was only deceiving. We tasted the water and it was almost like drinking soda!!

We were hungry already and it was nearing 6 pm. So, we took a break at a Georgian restaurant, the tables were set on natural setting near the river and it was a delight to have food in a scenic location. We wanted to try the Georgian cuisine, though there were only very few options for vegetarians.
Georgian Khachapuri
We tried our hands on Georgian Khachapuri (a pizza type bread with cheese stuffed inside), Cheese momos, brinjal with walnut, and some French fries. Sure, it turned out to be too heavy for us that we had to give away some momos.

On our way back, we visited Ananuri Castle at the banks of Aragvi river. The guide explained how the castle was destroyed as the Dukes of the castle were attacked by rival forces. A few years later, a church was built in the castle complex. We visited the castle and the church. 
Ananuri Castle
We also had a quick walk through the tunnel which was used as escape route for the dukes to lead to the river, whenever there was threat by enemies. The guide showed us an underground prison as well, which has now become a garbage bin.

Wherever we travelled, we saw lots of walnut trees, beehives, grape trees and, we were informed that loads of fruits and vegetables grow in the country.

After a long day, we relaxed back in the hotel. However, our day wasn’t over yet. We rested for a while, and again set out for a night walk and dinner. We googled to find Maharajah Indian restaurant at Akhvlediani Street and had our dinner there. The food was very good. Later, we took a walk to a nearby supermarket and picked up few items and headed back to the hotel.

To be Continued...